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Abbey Yarns, Beauty Editor

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Rejuvenating with Acids

  • 7 minute read

Acid peels, when done correctly, are a highly effective method for achieving youthful, radiant skin.

However, applying acids can be intimidating, even for experienced estheticians, due to the numerous factors that can impact results. These factors include technique, acid strength, skin type and conditions, and preparation. These fears often stem from misunderstandings and improper use of the treatment. For instance, when acids are used with too much strength or left on the skin for too long, they can cause severe skin damage, burning, and scarring.

When performed by knowledgeable and trained professionals, acid peels offer a powerful, non-invasive solution for skin improvement. They remove cellular buildup, promote skin renewal, reduce wrinkles and fine lines, decrease pore size and oiliness, and improve skin texture. Acid peels effectively treat acne, hyperpigmentation, aging, and rosacea.

Administering acid peels is an art form, and with proper training, estheticians can help clients achieve their desired results while easing any concerns they may have about the treatment.

PEELING OFF THE LAYERS

The use of enzymatic agents for skin rejuvenation dates back to ancient Egyptian times, but chemical peels as a dermatological treatment didn’t emerge until the late 1800s.

The use of chemical peels started to gain momentum in the 1960s. At that time, salicylic acid, resorcinol, phenol, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) were the primary choices for skin brightening and rejuvenation. Since then, many other chemical agents have been developed and used in chemical peels, including alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and other synthetically derived agents. Each of these agents can penetrate the skin at different levels, allowing for varying degrees of skin brightening and rejuvenation.

As dermatologists worldwide experimented with various formulations and applications, their findings were published, and chemical peels quickly became a popular choice among skin care professionals for achieving long-term skin health.

A chemical peel works by applying specialized acids and enzymes to the skin, creating a controlled injury that accelerates the process of cell division, revealing healthy and radiant skin. The acids and enzymes used in chemical peels help to dissolve the bonds that hold together the outer layers of the skin, allowing them to be peeled away. This reveals the underlying layer of fresh, healthy skin cells and initiates the process of cell division, which helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, scars, and hyperpigmentation.

The intensity of the treatment depends on the desired results and client needs and can range from mild progressive peels to mid-depth and deep peels.

Mild Progressive Peels:

  • The mildest form of chemical peel
  • This procedure removes only the outer layer of skin (stratum corneum)
  • Visible peeling may not occur
  • Usually performed in a series of 3-6 treatments, 1-2 weeks apart

Mid-Depth Peels:

  • Affect the deeper layers of skin (intra-epidermal layer)
  • Exfoliation occurs within 2-3 days
  • Require minimal downtime
  • Can be performed monthly for as long as needed

Deep Peels:

  • Reach the deepest layers of skin (intra-epidermal and dermal layers)
  • Result in significant peeling
  • Require 7-10 days of downtime
  • Best performed by a skincare professional

The choice of acid used in a peel depends on the intensity, client goals, and skin type. Today, there are more acids available than ever before, allowing for greater customization of the treatment. The downtime for each intensity of peel varies, with progressive peels having the least downtime and deep peels requiring the most.

  • By Intensity:
    • Progressive Peels: Mild acids such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) are used.
    • Mid-Depth Peels: Medium strength acids such as TCA and Jessner’s solution are used.
    • Deep Peels: Strong acids such as phenol are used.
  • By Client Goals:
    • Improving fine lines and wrinkles: AHA and BHA are used.
    • Treating hyperpigmentation: Kojic acid and glycolic acid are used.
    • Reducing acne: Salicylic acid is used.
  • Skin Type:
    • Oily skin: Salicylic acid is used.
    • Sensitive skin: Lactic acid is used.
    • Darker skin tones: Kojic acid is used.

It’s important to note that these are general guidelines and the choice of acid used should be determined by a professional after considering various factors such as skin type, medical history, and skin concerns.

A WIDE RANGE OF ACID FORMULAS

Different acids have unique purposes and impacts on skin cells and tissue rejuvenation. Here are some popular and effective acids:

  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): These are naturally occurring organic acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, that dissolve the “glue-like” substance (desmosome junctions) that holds skin cells together.
  • Azelaic acid (up to 15% concentration): This acid is made by oxygenating oleic acid, found in milk fats and grains like barley and wheat, and is used as a lightening, lifting, and antibacterial agent.
  • Salicylic Acid: Extracted from willow and birch trees, this beta hydroxy acid is a safe, low-risk option with a drying and lifting effect. Depending on its concentration, it can dissolve layers of the epidermis and result in substantial skin cell lifting.
  • Jessner: This blend of lower-strength acids (salicylic, resorcinol, and lactic, all at 17%) synergizes to provide efficient exfoliation with reduced risk.
  • TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid): Effective in low concentrations, TCA can penetrate the skin if used in an aqueous base. It is a self-neutralizing, nontoxic, keratolytic acid used alone or with other acids to disrupt skin cells and achieve deep exfoliation.
  • Retinol: This vitamin A derivative converts to retinoic acid, which regulates DNA and supports collagen synthesis, blood vessel formation, and healthy cell formation. Retinols help enhance the cellular injury caused by other acids.

These are some of the most frequently used peeling agents that fall under the superficial range.

ACIDS OF THE FUTURE

In addition to the classic acids, there are now a variety of new acids, customized formulations, and innovative blends that deliver impressive anti-aging results. These include:

  • Flower acids: Extracted from hibiscus and lotus root, these acids nourish skin cells and are gentler than many other options. They offer high antioxidant support, increase skin hydration, and create a lifting and exfoliating effect.
  • Malic acid, tartaric acid, and red wine vinegar: The wine vinegar extract contains resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant, and free radical scavenger. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, promotes cell growth and collagen synthesis, and inhibits proteases. Malic and tartaric acids regenerate, firm, and tone the skin while delivering essential nutrients.
  • Hydrogen peroxide, AHAs, and salicylic acid: This blend is highly effective for photodamaged skin. It improves blood flow and oxygenation, brightens skin tone, and reduces pigmentation. Hydrogen peroxide provides brightening benefits and antibacterial support, enhancing other acids’ absorption. Glycolic, L-lactic, and salicylic acids rejuvenate, hydrate, and support collagen.

INCREASING EFFICIENCY

For optimal results, proper preparation is crucial. It can make all the difference between a successful peel and disappointing outcomes and minimize the risks associated with chemical peels. These steps prepare the skin by reducing lipids, decreasing inflammation, inhibiting melanin production, and facilitating better absorption of the peeling solution.

The preparation process may vary for each client, but there are general steps to follow. Start with a thorough cleanse, followed by a granular scrub as a secondary cleanse if desired. Then, use a lipid reducer like ursolic acid and other ingredients such as kojic acid to suppress melanin production, creating a clean surface and initiating surface exfoliation.

Pre-treatments with enzymes and AHAs also benefit and enhance the results. During the treatment, enzymes may be used to speed up the skin’s “digestion” process, providing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support and infusing hydration and vital nutrients.

After undergoing a chemical peel or intense enzyme treatment, anti-inflammatory and wound-repair products such as arnica, epidermal growth factors, and amino acids will help accelerate recovery and rebuild healthy cells.

Don’t forget to finish the peel treatment by applying a mineral-based sunscreen. It not only provides protection but also delivers essential nutrients to the skin.

PRIORITIZING SAFETY

To achieve optimal results from skin peels, several factors must be considered. First and foremost, the knowledge, skills, and abilities of the person performing the peel are crucial. A skin assessment and history should be conducted before the peel, and a patch test should be done at least 48 hours prior. Before-and-after photos can help track progress and manage expectations before starting a peel program.

Follow best practices to ensure successful results. This means obtaining proper training, providing post-care instructions, and only performing the peel after a patch test. On the other hand, peels should not be performed on clients who have recently used Retin-A or taken Accutane, received Botox or another injectable, or on their first visit.

Learning about different peeling agents and how to use them effectively will allow you to deliver more effective, customized results to your clients.

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Beauty editor Abbey Yarns created this space to share her industry knowledge and consumer tips on all things skincare, hair, and make-up. Learn about what makes a product first rate and how to make informed buying decisions to suit your lifestyle.

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